Converting a Hobby Servomotor to a DC Gearhead Motor1
Ted Pavlic
Dec 15, 2004
2
Summary
While there are many resources that provide instruction for
modifying a hobby servomotor for continuous rotation, few resources
give instruction on how to convert a hobby servomotor to a simple
DC gearhead motor. Because hobby servomotors are packaged
with compact gear trains and robust DC motors, the synthesis of a
DC gearhead motor from a hobby servomotor provides for a
convenient locomotion actuator package for small robotics
applications. This package is ideal for robotics controllers that
lack a large number of digital outputs for servomotor control but do
have a number of simple programmable pulsed DC or analog outputs
that have strong power support for driving DC motors. This document
outlines this conversion from simple hobby servomotor to robust
DC gearhead motor. The Contents page of
this document can be used as a quick reference listing the necessary
steps for this conversion.
Contents
1 Introduction and Background
1.1 The Typical Continuous-Rotation Servomotor Approach
1.2 Problems with the Typical Approach
1.3 Servomotors as DC Gearhead Motors
2 Instructions for Converting the Servomotor
2.1 Disassemble the Servomotor into Components
2.1.1 Open the Servomotor
2.1.2 Carefully Remove the Gear Train
2.1.3 If Possible, Remove Motor-Circuitry Combination from Housing
2.2 Remove Unneeded Servomotor Electronics
2.2.1 Separate DC Motor from Circuitry
2.2.2 Salvage Wires from Electronics
2.2.3 Attach the Wires Directly to the DC Motor
2.3 Assemble the DC Gearhead Motor
2.3.1 Reinsert the DC Motor
2.3.2 Modify the Gear Train for Continuous Rotation
2.3.3 Reassemble the Gear Train and Reinsert into the Housing
2.3.4 Reassemble the Servomotor Housing
2.3.5 Test the Motor Before Applying Power to It
3 Some Important Remarks
3.1 Voltage Regulation to the DC Gearhead Motor
3.2 Motor Gear Train Binding as an Electrical Wiring Problem
3.3 Use a Capacitor Close to the Motor
3.4 Voltage Regulation is Often Not Necessary
List of Figures
1 Top View of Open Servomotor
2 Open Servomotor Adjacent to Removed Gear Train
3 Cleanly Removed Electronics Adjacent to Housing and Gear Train
4 Large Gear with Rotation Stop Adjacent to Same Gear without Rotation Stop
1 Introduction and Background
1.1 The Typical Continuous-Rotation Servomotor Approach
Many web sites are available that instruct how to turn a simple
hobby servomotor like the Futaba(R)
S-1483 into a continuous-rotation servomotor.4 The resulting motor is still controlled as a
servomotor. In other words, a pulse width modulated (PWM)
carrier signal still is needed to communicate a desired angle to
servo electronics onboard the modified servomotor. Those electronics
then move the modified servomotor output shaft to the desired
reference angle. However, the modifications made replace the servo
electronics' output angle feedback with static feedback representing
an unmoving output shaft. The mechanical stops that prevent
continuous rotation of the output are also removed. Thus, if the
servomotor is commanded to move to an angle other than the angle
represented by the static feedback, the motor will rotate
continuously in one direction or the other.
1.2 Problems with the Typical Approach
The typical continuous-rotation servomotor approach is ideal for
controllers that are designed primarily for controlling servomotors.
However, many controllers for small robotics applications have few
digital transistor-transistor logic (TTL) outputs that can
be used to generate the necessary PWM control signal for hobby
servomotors. For example, the Handy Board only has two
digital outputs truly available for servomotor control, and only one
of them is easily accessible; however, it does have four H-bridge
outputs primarily meant for directly driving simple direct
current (DC) motors.5 In these cases,
servomotor control outputs are scarce, and it is desirable to
control locomotion actuators with more powerful analog or pulsed DC
outputs. This leaves the servomotor control outputs available for
lower power application specific actuators that do not necessarily
need continuous rotation.
1.3 Servomotors as DC Gearhead Motors
When a controller already provides programmable outputs with
sufficient power support to directly drive DC motors, it is common
to combine these outputs with simple DC motors for locomotion
actuation. However, in these cases the DC motors frequently require
an external gear train to provide enough torque to drive the robot.
The implementation of this gear train can be cumbersome and complex
to integrate with the selected DC motors.
Hobby servomotors, however, are constructed with a compact nylon
gear train at the output of a relatively reliable DC motor. Rather
than modifying the servomotor electronics for continuous rotation,
removing those electronics completely allows for control of the
internal DC motor directly. This then gives the designer access to a
very compact power train solution more than adequate for most small
robotics applications.
Additionally, because of the robustness of the DC motors used in
most hobby servomotors, the control voltage to the motor often can
safely be applied at much higher than the five volts typically
provided as power support for the standard application of the
servomotor. Thus, modifying a servomotor to be used as a DC
gearhead motor yields a convenient powerful locomotion power train
component. The DC gearhead motor can be driven directly as
a standard DC motor, or may have a regulated control signal to help
extend the motor's longevity.
2 Instructions for Converting the Servomotor
2.1 Disassemble the Servomotor into Components
2.1.1 Open the Servomotor
First, remove any output attachment connected to the servomotor so
that the only the teeth of the output shaft are exposed.
Then, open the servomotor housing by removing the four long screws
accessible from the bottom of the unit.
After removing the four screws, it should be easy to remove the
small pieces that cover the top and the bottom of the unit, thus
exposing the motor and circuitry from the bottom and the nylon gear
train from the top. See Figure 1.
Figure 1: Top View of Open Servomotor
2.1.2 Carefully Remove the Gear Train
Carefully remove each gear in the gear train. Note that the nylon
gears may be lubricated, and thus care should be taken when handling
the gears. This gear train will eventually have to be reassembled,
so be sure to remember the original configuration. It may be helpful
to reassemble the gear train away from the servomotor to keep each
gear in its correct configuration.
Now that gear train is completely removed, the actual output shaft
of the DC motor as well as the notched potentiometer shaft should be
exposed. See Figure 2.
Figure 2: Open Servomotor Adjacent to Removed Gear Train
2.1.3 If Possible, Remove Motor-Circuitry Combination from Housing
The eventual goal of the following steps is to remove the circuitry
that is attached to the DC motor. It is easiest to accomplish this
by first removing the motor and circuitry completely from the
housing, but it is not necessary to do so.
If unable to remove the motor and circuitry completely, read the
following steps up through reassembling the motor and improvise a
method of achieving the same result. This process need not
be delicate as only the motor, housing, and gear train need to
survive it.
There are two common configurations that have relatively easy
methods for removing the motor-circuitry combination:
Motor Fastened with Screws
Often, the motor is held in place by screws accessible from the top
of the unit after the gear train has been removed. If these screws
are now visible, remove them. Apply pressure to the DC motor output
shaft and the potentiometer input shaft in order to remove the DC
motor and servomotor electronics from the housing. See .
Motor Held with Small Tabs
If no screws are accessible at the top of the unit under the gear
train, the motor and circuitry are often held in place simply by
small tabs, and thus with enough force can be popped out of the
unit. Apply pressure to the DC motor output shaft and the
potentiometer input shaft to dislodge the DC motor and servomotor
electronics from the housing.
In either case, a lot of pressure may need to be applied to the
output motor shaft and the potentiometer input shaft in order to
"pop" the motor and circuitry out from the bottom of the open
housing. Because the circuitry is entirely unneeded for the
DC gearhead motor, it is acceptable for the circuitry to
crack during this application of pressure. Figure
3 shows clearly removed servomotor
electronics adjacent to the open servomotor housing.
Figure 3: Cleanly Removed Electronics Adjacent to Housing and Gear Train
Impossible to Remove Motor-Circuitry Combination
If it is not possible to remove the motor and circuitry combination,
it may be helpful to push hard enough on the potentiometer as to
dislodge the circuitry to which its connected from the housing. This
will allow the circuitry to be removed from the housing once its
connection to the DC motor is severed.
2.2 Remove Unneeded Servomotor Electronics
2.2.1 Separate DC Motor from Circuitry
At this point, it is necessary to remove the DC motor from the
servomotor circuitry. There are two very similar ways to doing this.
Both are equally valid, but one may be easier to accomplish than the
other, especially if the motor-circuitry combination was not removed
completely from the housing. Regardless of the method, care
should be taken to prevent the long wires going into the servomotor
that connect to the electronics from being damaged.
Physically Cut Circuitry Away The simplest method of
separating the servomotor electronics and the DC motor is to clip
the circuitry in half so that the only circuitry still connected to
the motor resides completely underneath the motor. This is easy to
do with a small pair of diagonal cutters.
Desolder DC Motor from Servomotor Electronics The
cleanest method of separating the servomotor electrons and the DC
motor is to apply a soldering iron on the DC motor leads, and as the
solder melts, pull the circuit board away. Often, this requires a
two person team to complete.
Note that these two methods may be combined. The circuitry can be
cut away and then the remaining circuitry can be removed with a
soldering iron.
2.2.2 Salvage Wires from Electronics
The control electronics previously removed should have three wires
connected to it. It is most convenient to use these wires to direct
the power into the resulting DC gearhead motor. While
cutting these wires from the circuit board and stripping them is
simple to do, it is not difficult to apply a soldering iron to the
circuit board location where they are connected and pull them off of
the board as the solder melts.
Since only two wires are needed for the DC gearhead motor,
it may be useful to remove one of the two wires. This choice is
arbitrary, but depending on how the DC gearhead motor
interacts with the motor electronics that will control it, it may
make the most sense to remove the middle wire.
2.2.3 Attach the Wires Directly to the DC Motor
Now solder the two remaining wires to the two leads coming from the
bottom of the motor. If a portion of the circuit board is still
attached to the motor, these leads will be protruding through the
bottom of that circuit board. To each lead coming from the motor,
solder one wire.
Note that these wires will most likely be braided. Be
careful not to allow any of the braid from one wire to touch any of
the braid from the other wire. If the leads of the motor are
shorted together, during operation this can damage the controller
driving the motor. Additionally, if the motor leads are shorted
together, a sufficient amount of back-EMF will not build
up, and the gear train will appear to bind up, even though
this is an electrical problem and not a mechanical problem. Often
this electrical wiring problem is misdiagnosed as a mechanical
problem with the gear train.
2.3 Assemble the DC Gearhead Motor
2.3.1 Reinsert the DC Motor
Insert the DC motor that now lacks servomotor control circuitry back
into the servomotor housing. At this point, the DC motor's output
shaft should protrude out the top of the servomotor housing. Fasten
the DC motor as necessary by either "snapping" it in place,
screwing it place, or doing whatever is necessary to reverse the
previous process of removing it.
2.3.2 Modify the Gear Train for Continuous Rotation
Before reassembling the gears into the gear train, a small plastic
"stop" needs to be removed from the output shaft gear. This
"stop", which is perpendicular to the face of this largest gear,
prevents the gear train output from rotating continuously. It can be
clipped off of the gear with some sort of cutters or knife. The
resulting gear surface will need to be smooth to allow for easy
continuous rotation. Use a knife, sand paper, a rotary tool, or
something similar in order to make sure the gear face is
sufficiently smooth. Figure 4 shows this
large gear before and after the proper modification.
Figure 4: Large Gear with Rotation Stop Adjacent to Same Gear without Rotation Stop
2.3.3 Reassemble the Gear Train and Reinsert into the Housing
Reassemble the gears and place them back into the housing on top of
the DC motor. Take care to reassemble them properly so that DC motor
rotations translate to output shaft rotations. Also take care to
keep as much lubrication remaining on the gears as possible. n.
2.3.4 Reassemble the Servomotor Housing
Put the top and bottom pieces back on the housing and attach them
with the four long screws. What remains is now a completed
DC gearhead motor .
2.3.5 Test the Motor Before Applying Power to It
Try turning the output of the gear train. In order to do this, it
may be necessary to attach one of the servomotor wheel attachments.
The gear train output should be able to continuously rotate past 360
degrees with uniform resistance due to the DC motor's internal
resistance. The three common problems are as follows:
Gear Train Binding
If the gear train seems to bind up, make sure that the DC motor
leads are not being shorted, and make sure the gear train is
correctly assembled.
No Resistance to Rotation
If the output turns with almost no resistance and no sound, make
sure the gear train is assembled correctly; more specifically, make
sure that all of the gears are interfacing with each other.
Nonuniform Resistance to Rotation
If there is a spot of resistance in the rotation that seems
greater than the resistance in the rest of the rotation, make sure
that the "stop" has been removed completely.
3 Some Important Remarks
3.1 Voltage Regulation to the DC Gearhead Motor
It may be desirable to add voltage regulation in line with the two
wires going to the DC gearhead motor. Most hobby
servomotors are designed expecting that a maximum of five volts will
be applied to the DC motor, so it makes sense to regulate the output
to the DC gearhead motor so that it reaches no more than
five volts. This can be done with linear regulation, non-linear
clipping, or a number of other methods. Seek documentation on the
construction of such regulation circuitry elsewhere. Choose the
appropriate regulation keeping in mind the motor controller and
application.
3.2 Motor Gear Train Binding as an Electrical Wiring Problem
When soldering the wires onto the motor within the housing, be
careful not to let them wires touch. Because those wires are
most likely braided, it is very easy for some strands of the braid
to reach over and short against the other motor lead or a strand
from the other wire.
Not only can this condition damage the motor controller connected to
the DC gearhead motor, but this electrical short will
prevent the DC motor from building up any back-EMF, and the
motor will have an urge to stall. Because of the gear ratio on the
output of that motor, this stalling urge will be very
apparent, even when the DC gearhead motor is disconnected
from its controller and is being backdriven manually.
After you assemble the DC gearhead motor, try to turn the
output manually. If any binding occurs and the gear train appears to
be correctly assembled, then most likely the wires soldered to the
motor leads are shorting inside the housing. Even though
this will appear to be a mechanical problem, its roots are
electrical, and the wiring needs to be reviewed.
3.3 Use a Capacitor Close to the Motor
A large capacitor can be added as close to the
motor as possible with as short of leads as possible in order to
help protect the motor controller and smooth the operation of the
DC gearhead motor. It is highly advisable to add
this capacitor, though with well-behaved motors, it may not be
necessary.
Note that this capacitor can be very large, but if after the
application of the capacitor the motor is sluggish to respond to
changes in its input, the size of the capacitor should be reduced.
Increasing it any further will only degrade motor response and
require too much turn-on current from the motor controller.
3.4 Voltage Regulation is Often Not Necessary
Most hobby servomotors are robust enough to be able to handle a
maximum nine to eleven volts at input to the modified DC
gearhead motor. However, it is often simple to build modular
voltage regulation that interfaces to the motor controller just as
the motor would and interfaces to the motor just like the motor
controller would. It may be useful to keep voltage regulators built
and on-hand as a safe guard and connect to the DC gearhead
motor directly as necessary.
Note that the dynamics of the DC gearhead motor will
greatly change with a change of input voltage. Other changes to the
system may be necessary when moving from one voltage regulation
scheme to another.
Footnotes:
1Figures taken from http://www.seattlerobotics.org/guide/servohack.html, December 14, 2004.
2See http://www.tedpavlic.com/general_posts.php for updates to this document.
3"Futaba(R) Servos",
http://www.futaba-rc.com/servos/futm0029.html, December 15,
2004.
4"Hacking a
Servo", http://www.seattlerobotics.org/guide/servohack.html,
December 14, 2004.
5"The Handy Board",
http://handyboard.com/, December 14, 2004.
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